By Lydia Bagley -Equine Synergy
Rule 1. Buy a Finished/Trained Horse
A finished horse is a horse that has been trained in every aspect of his discipline. These horses
do not require “tune ups” or repeated training sessions with a trainer. There is an old rule of thumb, “Somebody has to know something.” Beginners are learning riders. A horse that knows the discipline is a must. Finished horses not only have experience but also know each and every voice command and leg aid. These horses will respond to the rider’s aid whether they are correct or not. As the rider gains experience the horse will become more selective, teaching the rider to be more correct with the aids each time they are applied. Young horses learn quickly to disobey a rider who does not always apply the same aid.
Example: Hunter ponies. Ponies that have recently (with in six months) started jumping are inconsistent in their fences. If the rider is unsure about the fence the pony will often jump from the wrong spot or run out. A finished hunter pony will select their spot and jump consistently every time. The rider only has to concentrate on their position and staying on the horse.
Rule 2. Buy a horse with Experience and Age.
Buying an older horse is important for beginner riders. Look for horses aged 8 to 15. These horses generally have been hauled, clipped, shown, or taken on rides outside their home environment. Experience can make up what a horse lacks in formal training as well. Some horses have been hauled so many times and seen so many different things that this can way heavily in their favor even if they have not been formally trained in any discipline.
The most common mistake made by new owners is to buy a horse that they or their child can grow up with. Horses are not puppies, and while cute and adorable while young they quickly grow up. Yearling horses can weigh as much as 800 lbs. and adult horses weigh an average of 1000 lbs.. Yearling and two year old horses require extensive training and discipline to become excellent riding horses. A horse who has just started his training is considered “green” meaning he still has a lot to learn.
The average horse when well cared for has a useable life of 20 – 25 years.
Rule 3. Buy a mare or gelding.
Beginners should ALWAYS buy a mare or gelding. Mares and Gelding are typically consistent in their behavior and have limited swings in mood or temperament. No matter how well trained, a stallion is inherently dangerous. Their behavior is unpredictable around other horses and therefore they must be monitored at all times by experienced individuals.
Stallions are not for the casual horseman, trail rider, beginner, or child. They require separate feeding, stabling, and turnout areas. It takes approximately six to eight months after a stallion is gelded for the testosterone levels to decrease. It can take as much as a year to eliminate stallion like behaviors. A favorite saying in the industry is “good stallions make great geldings.” Most stud colts or young stallions are gelded between 1 ½ and 2 years of age.
Riders must be 18 to show a stallion in most breed associations and they are not allowed at 4-H and Pony Club events.
Rule 4. Viewing the Horse
When going to see a prospective horse give an estimated time of arrival. Arrive earlier or later than expected. Arriving at an unset
time provides you the opportunity to view the horse as it is caught and to see his stable manners if he is stalled. Watching the horse caught or in the stall can also provide you with a look at his/her personality.
Additionally look for signs that the horse has been worked prior to your arrival. A horse that has been exercised before you arrive may not be well behaved or may not be as well trained as desired.
-Signs the horse has been recently ridden or lunged – sweat marks, damp from being rinsed off, saddle marks (girth area), heavy breathing
-Evidence the horse has been given a calming agent – horse may appear lethargic, have heavy droopy eyelids or lower lip, and may have difficultly moving about.
Rule 5. Watch the horse tied and groomed.
The horse you are viewing should be tied to be groomed and tacked. There are 2 forms of tying a horse. Straight tied means the horse is attached with one lead rope to an object in front of the horse. The horse can be tied to a trailer, tying rack, in a wash rack, or to a hitching post/tree.
Cross-tied means the horse has leads connecting from opposite sides. The leads are attached to either side of the halter and then to the walls on either side of the barn aisle or wash rack.
Occasionally a horse will be be left untied or “ground tied”. Ground Tied means the lead rope is left on the halter but hanging down to the ground. If you are looking at a horse tied in this manner, its important to ask WHY?
If the horse you are viewing is ground tied ask to see him tied to demonstrate this important skill. Horses that refuse to stand tied and set back can injure themselves and those around them. They are also difficult to haul and tack at events as you cannot leave them at your trailer and must hold them while visiting other places.
Grooming:
Watch the horse groomed by the owner. The horse should stand quietly and should not display any nervous behavior or any tendency to bite or kick at the handler. The horse should also allow the handler to pick up all four feet with ease and demonstrate that they stand for cleaning and the farrier.
6.Watch the horse saddled, bridled, and ridden.
After the horse has been groomed, watch as the horse is saddled. The horse should stand perfectly still while the saddle pads and
saddle are placed on the horses back. The horse should continue to stand quietly while the girth is attached. If the girth is attached and the horse begins to ring his tail, tosses his head or acts up, question the owner about the horses behavior and keep it in mind as you look at others. This is a behavior that could be linked to arena sourness or pain and discomfort.
Once the horse is saddled, the owner will bridle the horse. Ask about the bit and note if it’s a snaffle or curb. The horse’s head should be level or parallel to the ground while the bridle is put on. He should stand still while the bridle is placed over his ears and accept the bit without resistance.
RED FLAG: If the horse cannot stand still to be saddled or the bridle must be taken apart to be put on the horse. Say “No thanks” and keep looking.
Example: Pony Club riders are “Judged” on their ability to bridle a horse, if they cannot properly bridle they can lose points or in severe cases be eliminated from competition.
I cannot stress enough how important the next statement is. ALWAYS watch the horse ridden before you get on. The horse should perform all 3 gaits (walk, jog/trot, canter/lope.) Listen carefully to what the rider says about the horse. If the rider says, “well I usually lunge him for 20-30 minutes before I ride,” you can assume the horse is not trained to the level you are looking for. Beginners need: Calm, Quiet, Gentle.
Note: On cold windy days horses may be lunged prior to riding if they are stall kept to allow them to express the extra energy those days create.
Example: On several occasions I have gotten on horses the owner either was not prepared to ride or couldn’t ride to find that the “broke, kid safe” horse bucked immediately. Safety should always be your primary concern, do not mount until you have seen the horse ridden by others, and always wear a helmet.
If the owner refuses to ride, thank them for their time and continue your search.
Rule 7. Buy a Height Appropriate Horse
Size can be a determining factor when buying a horse. Horses are measured in Hands. A Hand is 4 inches. A 15 hand horse is 60 inches tall or 5’ at the wither. You want to purchase a horse that is height appropriate. You have to be comfortable with this horse on the ground and in the saddle. When you try a horse imagine sitting on that horse all day, would you be comfortable? Can you mount and dismount unassisted if needed? Is the horse easy for you to lead?
For kids well-trained experienced ponies are great. Ponies stand between 11 and 14.2 hands. The ponies are easy to tack, mount, and are not intimidating because of height.
For amateur riders and pleasure riders 14.2 to 15.3 hand horses are a great height. This range is also good for kids who have outgrown a pony. Horses in this height range are tall enough and stout enough for the average adult to be comfortable riding. Most stock type breeds (Quarter horses, Paints, Appaloosa’s) fall into this height category as due Morgan’s, Arabians and some other light breeds.
Warmblood’s generally stand between 15.3 and 17 hands; these horses are used extensively in dressage and jumping. Draft horses can stand any where from 15 to 18 hands tall and are typically very wide bodied. Draft crosses may not reach 18 hands, but can still be too wide for small riders.
Rule 8. Buy an appropriately trained horse for the level of the rider and discipline.
Ask yourself these questions. How long have I been riding? Will my child or I need outside instruction? How confident am I? Am I buying a horse for one child or the family? The answers will determine the type and training level of your new horse.
For beginners, always buy quiet, calm, reliable, relaxed, mature, older horses trained in the discipline you wish to ride. If you are not one hundred percent comfortable with the horse on the ground and in the saddle – DO NOT BUY!! There is a reason your not comfortable. Wait for the perfect horse to come along.
Amateur riders should look for calm, relaxed, well trained horses as well, but these riders (generally) have a 2+ years experience may be comfortable purchasing a horse that is only 5 years old and not fully finished in the discipline of choice.
If you are an experienced rider, be sure you have time to ride a “green” horse, if your buying for your family, make sure the horse is beginner safe.
Riding level is determined by many factors, including the number of hours you ride and your comfort level performing certain riding and non riding tasks.
To determine the number of hours you ride per year use the following formula.
Number of hours per week x number of weeks per year
Ex: 1 hour per week x 50 weeks = 50 hours per year (normal for riders only taking lessons each week.)
The following questions can assist you in determining riding level.
-Can you groom without assistance?
-Can you tack unassisted?
-Do you know the parts of the saddle/bridle, and can you take them apart for cleaning, put them back together unassisted.
-Are you comfortable riding at walk/trot/canter?
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Beginners – answered “NO” to two or more questions and have less than 100 hours ride time.
Intermediate or Advanced – answered “YES” to all of the above and has over 100 hours ride time.
Rule 9. Look at multiple horses, and never take your trailer on the first visit.
Too frequently people go see the first horse on their list and buy it based on color, or get pressured by the owner to purchase the animal before someone else comes back. Please do not do this!
There are numerous sources available to look at horses. It is easier to buy than to sell. Look at as many horses as you possibly can. If the horse is out of state ask for a video of the horse. Ask a professional to evaluate the video with you. If you are not comfortable looking at horses on your own ask a professional to go with you.
If you like a particular horse, go back and look at him/her again and again, if you still like the horse, make an offer to purchase. Take your trailer on the very last visit after the pre-purchase exam is completed and the horse has passed.
Its hard to say “no thanks” if your trailer is with you when looking at horses, and the sellers knows if you have a trailer your ready to pay the asking price. Leave the trailer at home and keep the negotiating powers on your side.
Rule 10. Coggins, Vet Checks, Health and Farrier records.
In order to transport, show, or exhibit a horse in the United States they must have a current Coggins from a licensed Veterinarian. Coggins is a test for Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA or Swamp Fever). At this time EIA is a non-treatable disease that is highly contagious. For the horse to be sellable they must have a current (less than 1 year old) negative Coggins. Some states also require Certified Health papers less than 30 days old from a Veterinarian in order to transport.
Ask to see the owner’s records for shots, farrier work and de-worming.
Vaccinations: Horses are vaccinated once yearly for the following diseases: Rhinopneumonitis, Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE), Western Equine Encephalomyelitis (WEE), Venezuelan Equine Encephalomyelitis (VEE), Influenza, West Nile, and Tetanus.
Deworming: Horses should be de-wormed every 6 weeks. Ask the owner for the brand used and last date of de-worming. Also ask if the horse has been on a de-worming regimen for the last year.
Hoof Care: Horses usually have their feet trimmed or shod every 6 to 8 wks. Ask the owner for the name and number of the farrier and last date of shoeing. You can continue to use the same farrier if you are in the local area or simply ask him about the horse’s habits when being shod.
Vet Check: Before completing the purchase of your new horse locate an independent veterinarian to perform a pre-purchase exam. This consists of a flex test, health evaluation, and recommendation from the veterinarian. If the horse has a health or lameness issue it will be revealed in the exam. If the horse you’re purchasing costs more then $3500 dollars it is also a good idea to have ex-rays of the horse’s legs taken as well.
Health Records: Ask the owner for all information related to the horses health and any vet records maintained by the owner, for the length of time they have owned the horse. It is important to ask if the horse has a history of Colic, ulcers, or a recurring lameness issue, as it can predispose the horse to have health problems in the future.
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